Goan chef and food writer Zubin begins a series of Indian food articles for us with a description of Sindhi food, lentil dal, an extraordinary chutney called murabba, and the streetfood known as ‘chaat.’
(photograph of the Mumbai chaat seller courtesy of David Boyk)
Over the weekend, I managed to sneak out of Mumbai and head towards Ulhasnagar. Now Ulhasnagar is a rather large township which is a good hour and a half drive away from the city. In its early stages which roughly translates to about sixty years ago, it was populated by members of the Sindhi community who decided to settle down there from their native Sindh province (now in Pakistan) after being displaced by the Partition of India and Pakistan. The community is noted for their business acumen and the township has flourished under their stewardship.
I was invited by an amazing family famed for their culinary prowess and this was definitely an offer that I could not refuse. I wouldn’t undertake a drive to Ulhasnagar at the crack of dawn for love or for money, but I did when I heard that they would be serving Dal-Pakwan for breakfast.
Dal-Pakwan is a rather cool thing that is eaten by most Sindhis for breakfast and it consists of a lentil dish made of split chickpeas which is scooped up with a thin, crisp fried bread called a Pakwan which resembles a Middle-Eastern Lavash. The lentil dish (dal) is rather bland but when topped with a spicy coriander and garlic chutney, the effects are phenomenal.
Most of the gap between breakfast and lunch were spent checking out the culinary scene in the town. I ate the spiced potato patties topped with tamarind chutney, the crisp samosas topped with lentils and spicy mint chutney, the cashewnut-fenugreek rissoles and the crisp chickpea flour battered onion fritters.
It was time to return for lunch and I could not wait because I was told that we would have Sai Bhaji waiting for us. I have always loved a good Sai Bhaji but I have seen many people get the combination totally wrong which ends up ruining the dish. The dish comprises of split chickpeas that are cooked to a mash with fenugreek leaves, fresh spinach and dill leaves. More often than not, it is finished by swirling in home churned butter that gives an earthy, rustic appeal to the dish. There was a spiced rice and an absolutely gorgeous mango and almond chutney called a murabba to accompany it. Now I have eaten several forms of murabba, but this one was really tops. It was cut in large chunks which is a far better idea than grating the flesh because your teeth can actually sink through the mango and the second distinguishing feature was that it had almonds in it. Can you imagine the combination? Sweet, firm mango flesh, tart and spicyflavourings and crisp, firm almonds – Culinary Nirvana.
On my way out, I literally had to wedge myself out through the doorway sideways because I had bloated up so much. I was half-contemplating on walking back all the way home when I saw the display signs for the famous A-One Chaat Shop.
Now Chaat is a decidedly Indian phenomenon. (I dwelled on it extensively in my book where we even have a chapter dedicated to its cause.) It started off as a snack, got elevated to the status of an hors-d’oeuvre and is so well accepted now, that it can replace entire meals.
I savoured the spicy-sweet pani puris which deserve a post in their own right and the fantabulous dahi-wada which are dumplings soaked in spiced yoghurt and topped with tamarind chutney.
As I waited for the tow truck to drag me back home, I could hear the words ringing in my head. Words that were once uttered by a man of immense power who threw away a life of fame and fortune for a better life of sleaze, fame and fortune – “I’ll be back”
Chef and Indian food writer Zubin d’Souza works for the Citrus Hotel group and is the author of All-India Vegetarian Cookbook: A Subzi Sutra Containing the Secrets of India’s Vegetarian Cuisine
You can read more of his articles here.
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